Wednesday, January 8, 2020
Qutub Minar
Delhi Heritage Trail : 16
Qutub Minar
Qutub Minar the tallest stone tower in the Indian subcontinent. It is situated on the southern suburb of Delhi near Mehrauli. The construction of the tower was started in the year 1192 by Qutbuddin Aibak the founder of Slave dynasty near Quwwat ul Islam Mosque. During his lifetime only the first storey of the tower was completed made of red sandstone.
The second, third and fourth storey were constructed by his successor Iltumish(1211-36). It was struck by a major lightening in the year 1368 during the period of Firuz Shah Tughlaq and the fourth storey was damaged . It was replaced by him along with an additional fifth storey. Later in 1503 Sikandar Lodhi of the Lodhi dynasty renovated the top stories with marble stones.
The total height of the Minar is 238 feet and there are 329 revolving steps inside it to go to the top. The angular and circular fluttings on the lower storeys, projecting balconies and decorative inscriptions on the walls add to its beauty. It is said artisans from Samarkand and Bukhara in the middle east Asia were brought to do the decorations.
Another major earthquake struck the Minar in 1803 and the top Cupola was damaged. The East India Company Governor General authorised Major Robert Smith Garrison Engineer stationed at Delhi to do the repair. He replaced the top with a Hindu style Cupola and work was completed by 1828. But it was not in tune with the Islamic architecture of the Minar and ultimately in 1848 Lord Hardinge ordered the removal of it and it now lies in the corner of the ground. It used to be called Smiths folly.
Our people are enamoured by the modern day skyscrapers of the western hemisphere without appreciating the one in our backyard constructed 800 years back.
Monday, January 6, 2020
Fatehpuri Masjid
Delhi Heritage Trail : 15
Fatehpuri Masjid
This 17th century Masjid is situated at the far end of Chandni Chowk leading from Red Fort. It was built in the year 1650 by Fatehpuri Begum one of the 14 wives of Shahjahan. It was the oldest Masjid in the city of Shahjahanabad which was started around 1640 by Shahjahan. The design and structure of the Masjid is similar to Juma Masjid with an almost similar square yard with entrances on three sides and a cupola near the main entrance and minars in the Corners.
After the Mutiny of 1857 the Britishers badly treated the Masjid and sold it to Lala Chunna Mal a leading Banker of 19th century Delhi. It was restored to Muslims in 1877 for regular worship. The antipathy against the Muslims after Mutiny helped the Hindus and Chunna Mal became an important figure in local Government. His 150 year old Haveli is also situated near by.
The area around Fatehpuri Masjid consists of a network of tiny lanes with a lot of wholesale and retail shops selling Spices and Dry fruits with head loaders, hand carts and cycle rickshaws zipping around. The aroma of the spices and dry fruits is inviting and you are taken back to an era of more than hundred years and old world charm which can only be experienced
Kashmere Gate
Delhi Heritage Trail : 14
Kashmere Gate
This is one of the 14 gates of Shajahanabad built by Moghul emperor Shahjahan in 17th century. It was named so because it was leading the road to Kashmir from Delhi. The gate was close to the river and the place around it was used by the Nobles and Courtiers in the Moghul court to build their country houses. Dara Sukoh the brother of Aurangazeb had his Mango Grove nearby.
During the Moghul period there was a Custom house near the gate to collect taxes on trade running through the gate. When the mutineers captured Delhi in 1857 they heavily fortified the gate. The British troops under Brigadier John Nicholson heavily bombarded the bastions, walls and gates around the Kashmere gate. Even now the dent made by the cannon balls can be seen. The siege continued for 4 months and ultimately the gate was breached on 14th September 1857 by Nicholson and his troops. He died in the battle and was buried in the nearby Nicholson Cemetery.
The gate is now an ASI protected monument. The gate is just outside Kashmere Gate metro station.
Tuesday, October 22, 2019
Qila Hi Kuhna Masjid, Mathura Road
Delhi Heritage Trail : 13
Qila Hi Kuhna Masjid, Purana Qila
This Masjid situated within the complex of Purana Qila on Mathura Road was built by Sher Shah in 1542. The name of the Masjid literally means "the Mosque of the old Fort" and it was the Congregation Mosque of Purana Qila. The profusely decorated Mosque includes Red and Yellow sandstone and use of white Marble inlays. Intricate stone carvings are part of the Mosque facade. The large number of Jharokhas ( cantilevered opening ) and octogenarian turrets are a distinctive features of the Mosque. The prayer hall measures 51m by 15m and Mosque sours to a height of 16.5 metres.
The nearly 475 year old Mosque is situated on Mathura Road within Purana Qila complex and worth a visit.
Friday, December 21, 2018
St.James Church 1836
Delhi Heritage Trail : 12
St . James Church, Kashmere Gate
This is perhaps the oldest church in Delhi the construction of which started in 1826 and consecrated in 1836. The Church is Anglican and belongs to Church of North India. It was built by James Skinner who founded the Skinners Horse in 1803 the Cavalry regiment of East India Company.
James Skinner was half Hindu being born to a British and a Rajput Hindu women. While lying wounded in a battlefield in 1800 he took a vow to build a church if he survived and hence the church was built. He had 14 wives( how he managed them) and many children and a big family grand and great grandsons, grand daughters whose family still visit the church.
The Church though Anglican is not situated in Lutyens Delhi and outside the walls of old Shajahanabad in Kashmere Gate. The Steeple of the Church does not soar high unlike many of the churches, has an Octogonal arcaded central dome with stained glass windows and looks like a neighbourhood church. The Altar of the church is simple in design. The church has beautiful majestic colonaded portico porches on its three sides. The Church has a special Pew(Bench) for Skinners family .
Before it was built the area was a Mango Grove belonging to Dara Sukoh the estranged brother of Aurangazeb. All the members of the Skinners family are buried in the North side of the church complex. James Skinner died in 1841 at Hansi and is buried before the altar of the Church. William Fraser Resident Commissioner of Delhi in 1857 and scores of English killed during Mutiny lay buried in the Church complex.
The Church is a stones throw away from Kashmere gate metro station. It is an active church and services are held regularly.
Sunday, December 9, 2018
Humayuns Tomb 1565-72
Delhi Heritage Trail : 11
HUMAYUNS TOMB
This World Heritage site situated in the Nizamuddin Heritage area is one of the earliest tomb of Moghul Emperors. Hamida Banu Begum the grieving wife of Humayun built the tomb during the years 1565-72. It stands on a platform of 12000 metre square and is 47 metre in height.
The tomb has a mix Persian influence in Indian architecture and built of rubble masonary. The first use of red sandstone and white marble in large quantities is in this structure. The dome at the top is 6m in height. The tomb of the emperor is situated in the central hall of the tomb covered with white marble.
The tomb is called Dormitary of Moghul empire with more than 100 graves of the close family members situated in the complex including that of Dara Shukoh, and later Moghuls badshahs like Mohammed Azam Shah, Jahandar Shah, Farukkh Siyar, and Alamgir II
During the 1857 mutiny the last Moghul emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar II escaped from Shajahanabad with his family of 16 members and was captured near Humayuns Tomb by Captain Hodson and taken back to the city where his sons were killed.
The tomb is fully renovated and well maintained with funds from Aga Khan Trust. The monument is situated a stones throw away from DPS School, Mathura Road
Friday, December 7, 2018
Bahadur Shah Zafar II last Mughul Emperor
Delhi Heritage Trail : 10
Bahadur Shah Zafar II (1775-1862)
He was the last Mughul Emperor to rule Delhi. He assumed the throne at a very late age of 62 years in 1837 after the demise of his father Akbar Shah. His rule and territory were restricted to the areas in and around Delhi. He spent most of time writing poems, attending mushairas, and with his Begums within Red Fort.
When the Mutiny broke out in Delhi he was made a reluctant leader by the rebels. When the rebellion at Delhi was put down he ran out of Shajahanabad to Humans Tomb with close family members. He was captured there by Major Hodson brought back and two of his sons and a grand son were killed near Khooni Darwaza on the way to Red Fort. The British ultimately exiled him to Rangoon fearing he may be again a focal point for future revolt although he wanted to be exiled to Mecca.
In Rangoon Bahadur Shah badly missed Hindustan, His favourite Delhi Biryani, Mangoes, Kababs and Moong kind Dal. The few people around him Spoke a different language which he cannot understand.
He died on 7th November 1862 with his youngest wife, two sons some Begums and servants at his bedside. A grave was hurriedly dug in the evening and the body buried into it without any fun fare under lanterns lights. Mud was spread over it and no marks were left for identifying it. He is now being revered as a Pir in Rangoon and people visit his Mazar for seeking favours.
He is the only Mughul emperor to have been photographed.
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