Red Fort (Lal Qila)

Delhi Heritage Trail 18
             Red Fort (Lal Qila)
   
        This more than 300 year old  was built by Shajahan since he  wanted to shift the capital  from  Agra  as it was overcrowded.  The construction started around  1638 and was completed  in the  year 1648. Compared to  Agra  Fort  Lal Qila or Red Fort  is not  that  grand. Over a period  of time  due  to invasion of  Nadir  Shah in 1739 and after  the  Sepoy  Mutiny  in 1857 many of the grand buildings inside the Fort were demolished. The  British  built  many barracks in the Fort after demolition of the  old buildings after 1857 which are out of place in this heritage site. Only a very  few 17th century  buildings are left in the  Fort like Meena Bazar, Naubat Khana, Diwani-i-Am, Diwani-i-Khas, Rang Mahal, Zafar Mahal, Moti Masjid, Khizri Gate.  These buildings are maintained well by the ASI.

Meena Bazaar:  This Bazaar was an exclusive retail bazaar  which was frequented  in 17th and 18th  century  by the  Moghul nobles of the  Fort

Naubat Khana :   This was also called  Drum House  were  the  Musicians of the  Fort played whenever there was an occasion or when  the  King was moving in or out of the  Fort

Diwani-i-Am :   The hall of public  Audience where the King met common people to hear their grievances.

Diwani-i-Khas:  The marble hall where the king  met the important nobles.

Zafar  Mahal :  This was built by last Moghul king in 1842 where he used to sit hours together  for writing poems.

Moti  Masjid : The  private  masjid of Aurangazeb

Rang Mahal :  The place of entertainment.

Khizri Gate  :  This was  the  underground  gate from Yamuna through which Shajahan entered the Fort in 1648 after its completion for the first time.  This is also the gate through which Bahadur Shah Zafar  II escaped on 20th September 1857 from the Fort to be caught 3 days later at Humayuns Tomb  by Major  Hudson.

At James Church Copper Ball

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         The Copper Ball and Cross in St James  Church, Kashmere Gate

       This  Copper Ball  and Cross were  originally  at the  top of the central  dome of St . James  Church,  Kashmere  Gate. During the Sepoy  mutiny  of 1857 the  church  was heavily damaged when the rebels and British  had to  resort to  do or die battle  in nearby  Kashmere  gate. The  Copper  Ball was severely  pierced  and damaged by the  bullets and after  the  mutiny they were  reconstructed and every effort was made to  maintain  the original  shape. Many of the  British  Officers and soldiers who lost  their lives during mutiny lie buried here including British Commissioner of Delhi at that time  Sir  William Fraser.

Qutub Minar

Delhi Heritage Trail : 16

      Qutub Minar

     Qutub Minar the tallest stone tower in the  Indian subcontinent.  It is situated on the  southern suburb of  Delhi near  Mehrauli.  The  construction of the tower was started in the year 1192 by Qutbuddin  Aibak the founder  of  Slave dynasty near Quwwat ul Islam Mosque.  During his lifetime only the  first storey of the  tower was completed made of red sandstone.

       The  second,  third and fourth storey were constructed by his successor Iltumish(1211-36). It was struck by a major lightening in the  year 1368 during the period of Firuz Shah Tughlaq and the  fourth storey was damaged . It was replaced by him along with an additional  fifth  storey. Later in 1503 Sikandar Lodhi  of the  Lodhi  dynasty renovated the top stories  with  marble stones.

        The  total height of the Minar is 238 feet and there are 329 revolving steps  inside it to go to the top.  The  angular  and circular fluttings on the  lower storeys, projecting balconies and decorative inscriptions on the  walls add to its beauty.  It is said artisans  from  Samarkand and Bukhara in the  middle east Asia were brought to do the decorations.

       Another major  earthquake struck the Minar in 1803 and the  top Cupola was damaged.  The  East India  Company  Governor General  authorised Major  Robert  Smith  Garrison  Engineer stationed at Delhi to do the repair.  He replaced the top with  a Hindu style Cupola and work was completed by 1828. But it was  not  in tune with the Islamic  architecture of the Minar  and ultimately  in 1848 Lord Hardinge ordered the  removal of it and it now lies in the corner of the ground.  It used to be called Smiths folly.

      Our people are enamoured by the modern day  skyscrapers of the western hemisphere without appreciating the one in our backyard constructed 800 years back.

Fatehpuri Masjid

Delhi  Heritage  Trail   : 15

              Fatehpuri  Masjid

        This  17th  century  Masjid is situated at the  far end of  Chandni  Chowk leading from  Red Fort. It was built  in the year 1650 by Fatehpuri  Begum one of the 14 wives of Shahjahan.  It was the oldest Masjid in the  city of  Shahjahanabad which was started around 1640  by Shahjahan. The  design and structure of the Masjid is similar to  Juma Masjid  with an  almost similar  square yard with entrances on three sides and a cupola near the main entrance and minars in the  Corners.

       After the  Mutiny of 1857 the  Britishers badly treated the Masjid and sold it to  Lala  Chunna Mal a leading Banker of 19th century  Delhi.  It was restored to Muslims in 1877 for  regular  worship. The  antipathy against the  Muslims after  Mutiny helped the Hindus and Chunna Mal became an important  figure in local  Government. His 150 year old Haveli is also situated near by.

          The  area around  Fatehpuri  Masjid consists of a network of tiny lanes with a lot of wholesale and retail shops selling Spices and Dry fruits with  head loaders, hand carts and cycle rickshaws  zipping around. The  aroma of the  spices and dry fruits is inviting and you are taken back to an era of more than hundred years and old world charm which can only be experienced

Kashmere Gate

Delhi Heritage  Trail : 14

          Kashmere  Gate

       This is one of the 14 gates of Shajahanabad built by Moghul emperor  Shahjahan  in 17th century. It was named so because it was leading the road to  Kashmir from  Delhi.  The  gate was close to the river  and the  place around it was used by the Nobles and Courtiers in the  Moghul  court to build their country  houses.  Dara Sukoh the  brother of  Aurangazeb  had his Mango Grove  nearby.

       During the Moghul  period there was a Custom house near the  gate to collect taxes on trade running through the gate. When the  mutineers captured Delhi  in 1857 they heavily  fortified the  gate.  The  British  troops under Brigadier  John Nicholson  heavily bombarded the bastions, walls and gates around the  Kashmere gate.  Even now the dent made by the cannon balls can be seen.  The  siege continued for  4 months and ultimately the  gate was breached on 14th September  1857 by Nicholson and his troops. He died in the  battle and was buried in the nearby Nicholson Cemetery.

       The  gate is now an ASI  protected monument. The gate is just outside Kashmere Gate metro station.

Qila Hi Kuhna Masjid, Mathura Road

Delhi Heritage  Trail : 13

          Qila Hi Kuhna Masjid, Purana Qila

      This Masjid situated within the complex of Purana Qila on Mathura  Road was built  by Sher Shah in 1542.  The  name of the Masjid literally means "the Mosque of the old Fort"  and it was the Congregation Mosque  of Purana Qila. The  profusely decorated Mosque  includes  Red and Yellow sandstone and use of white  Marble inlays. Intricate stone carvings are part of the Mosque facade. The  large number of Jharokhas ( cantilevered opening ) and octogenarian turrets are a distinctive features of the Mosque. The  prayer hall measures 51m  by 15m and Mosque sours to a height of  16.5 metres.

        The nearly 475 year old Mosque is situated on Mathura Road within Purana Qila complex and worth a visit.

St.James Church 1836

Delhi  Heritage Trail : 12

       St . James  Church,  Kashmere Gate

        This is perhaps the  oldest  church  in Delhi the  construction of  which started in 1826 and consecrated in 1836. The  Church  is Anglican and belongs to Church of North India.  It was built by James Skinner who founded the  Skinners  Horse in 1803 the Cavalry  regiment of East India  Company.

          James Skinner  was half Hindu  being born  to a British  and a Rajput Hindu women.  While lying wounded in a battlefield in 1800 he took a vow to build a church if he survived and hence the church was built.  He had 14 wives( how he managed them) and many children and a big  family grand and great grandsons, grand daughters whose family still visit the church.

           The Church though Anglican  is not situated in Lutyens Delhi and outside the walls of  old Shajahanabad in Kashmere  Gate. The  Steeple  of the Church  does not soar high unlike many of the churches,  has an Octogonal arcaded central dome with  stained glass windows  and looks like a neighbourhood church. The  Altar of the church is simple in design.  The  church has beautiful majestic  colonaded portico porches on its three sides. The  Church has a special Pew(Bench) for  Skinners family .

       Before it was built  the area was a Mango  Grove  belonging to  Dara Sukoh the  estranged brother of Aurangazeb.  All the members of the Skinners family  are buried in the North side of the church complex. James Skinner  died in 1841 at Hansi and is buried before the  altar of the Church.  William Fraser  Resident Commissioner of Delhi  in 1857 and scores of  English killed during Mutiny  lay buried  in the  Church complex.

        The  Church is a stones throw away from  Kashmere gate metro station.  It is an active  church  and services are held regularly.