Qutub Minar

Delhi Heritage Trail : 16

      Qutub Minar

     Qutub Minar the tallest stone tower in the  Indian subcontinent.  It is situated on the  southern suburb of  Delhi near  Mehrauli.  The  construction of the tower was started in the year 1192 by Qutbuddin  Aibak the founder  of  Slave dynasty near Quwwat ul Islam Mosque.  During his lifetime only the  first storey of the  tower was completed made of red sandstone.

       The  second,  third and fourth storey were constructed by his successor Iltumish(1211-36). It was struck by a major lightening in the  year 1368 during the period of Firuz Shah Tughlaq and the  fourth storey was damaged . It was replaced by him along with an additional  fifth  storey. Later in 1503 Sikandar Lodhi  of the  Lodhi  dynasty renovated the top stories  with  marble stones.

        The  total height of the Minar is 238 feet and there are 329 revolving steps  inside it to go to the top.  The  angular  and circular fluttings on the  lower storeys, projecting balconies and decorative inscriptions on the  walls add to its beauty.  It is said artisans  from  Samarkand and Bukhara in the  middle east Asia were brought to do the decorations.

       Another major  earthquake struck the Minar in 1803 and the  top Cupola was damaged.  The  East India  Company  Governor General  authorised Major  Robert  Smith  Garrison  Engineer stationed at Delhi to do the repair.  He replaced the top with  a Hindu style Cupola and work was completed by 1828. But it was  not  in tune with the Islamic  architecture of the Minar  and ultimately  in 1848 Lord Hardinge ordered the  removal of it and it now lies in the corner of the ground.  It used to be called Smiths folly.

      Our people are enamoured by the modern day  skyscrapers of the western hemisphere without appreciating the one in our backyard constructed 800 years back.

Fatehpuri Masjid

Delhi  Heritage  Trail   : 15

              Fatehpuri  Masjid

        This  17th  century  Masjid is situated at the  far end of  Chandni  Chowk leading from  Red Fort. It was built  in the year 1650 by Fatehpuri  Begum one of the 14 wives of Shahjahan.  It was the oldest Masjid in the  city of  Shahjahanabad which was started around 1640  by Shahjahan. The  design and structure of the Masjid is similar to  Juma Masjid  with an  almost similar  square yard with entrances on three sides and a cupola near the main entrance and minars in the  Corners.

       After the  Mutiny of 1857 the  Britishers badly treated the Masjid and sold it to  Lala  Chunna Mal a leading Banker of 19th century  Delhi.  It was restored to Muslims in 1877 for  regular  worship. The  antipathy against the  Muslims after  Mutiny helped the Hindus and Chunna Mal became an important  figure in local  Government. His 150 year old Haveli is also situated near by.

          The  area around  Fatehpuri  Masjid consists of a network of tiny lanes with a lot of wholesale and retail shops selling Spices and Dry fruits with  head loaders, hand carts and cycle rickshaws  zipping around. The  aroma of the  spices and dry fruits is inviting and you are taken back to an era of more than hundred years and old world charm which can only be experienced

Kashmere Gate

Delhi Heritage  Trail : 14

          Kashmere  Gate

       This is one of the 14 gates of Shajahanabad built by Moghul emperor  Shahjahan  in 17th century. It was named so because it was leading the road to  Kashmir from  Delhi.  The  gate was close to the river  and the  place around it was used by the Nobles and Courtiers in the  Moghul  court to build their country  houses.  Dara Sukoh the  brother of  Aurangazeb  had his Mango Grove  nearby.

       During the Moghul  period there was a Custom house near the  gate to collect taxes on trade running through the gate. When the  mutineers captured Delhi  in 1857 they heavily  fortified the  gate.  The  British  troops under Brigadier  John Nicholson  heavily bombarded the bastions, walls and gates around the  Kashmere gate.  Even now the dent made by the cannon balls can be seen.  The  siege continued for  4 months and ultimately the  gate was breached on 14th September  1857 by Nicholson and his troops. He died in the  battle and was buried in the nearby Nicholson Cemetery.

       The  gate is now an ASI  protected monument. The gate is just outside Kashmere Gate metro station.

Qila Hi Kuhna Masjid, Mathura Road

Delhi Heritage  Trail : 13

          Qila Hi Kuhna Masjid, Purana Qila

      This Masjid situated within the complex of Purana Qila on Mathura  Road was built  by Sher Shah in 1542.  The  name of the Masjid literally means "the Mosque of the old Fort"  and it was the Congregation Mosque  of Purana Qila. The  profusely decorated Mosque  includes  Red and Yellow sandstone and use of white  Marble inlays. Intricate stone carvings are part of the Mosque facade. The  large number of Jharokhas ( cantilevered opening ) and octogenarian turrets are a distinctive features of the Mosque. The  prayer hall measures 51m  by 15m and Mosque sours to a height of  16.5 metres.

        The nearly 475 year old Mosque is situated on Mathura Road within Purana Qila complex and worth a visit.

St.James Church 1836

Delhi  Heritage Trail : 12

       St . James  Church,  Kashmere Gate

        This is perhaps the  oldest  church  in Delhi the  construction of  which started in 1826 and consecrated in 1836. The  Church  is Anglican and belongs to Church of North India.  It was built by James Skinner who founded the  Skinners  Horse in 1803 the Cavalry  regiment of East India  Company.

          James Skinner  was half Hindu  being born  to a British  and a Rajput Hindu women.  While lying wounded in a battlefield in 1800 he took a vow to build a church if he survived and hence the church was built.  He had 14 wives( how he managed them) and many children and a big  family grand and great grandsons, grand daughters whose family still visit the church.

           The Church though Anglican  is not situated in Lutyens Delhi and outside the walls of  old Shajahanabad in Kashmere  Gate. The  Steeple  of the Church  does not soar high unlike many of the churches,  has an Octogonal arcaded central dome with  stained glass windows  and looks like a neighbourhood church. The  Altar of the church is simple in design.  The  church has beautiful majestic  colonaded portico porches on its three sides. The  Church has a special Pew(Bench) for  Skinners family .

       Before it was built  the area was a Mango  Grove  belonging to  Dara Sukoh the  estranged brother of Aurangazeb.  All the members of the Skinners family  are buried in the North side of the church complex. James Skinner  died in 1841 at Hansi and is buried before the  altar of the Church.  William Fraser  Resident Commissioner of Delhi  in 1857 and scores of  English killed during Mutiny  lay buried  in the  Church complex.

        The  Church is a stones throw away from  Kashmere gate metro station.  It is an active  church  and services are held regularly.

Humayuns Tomb 1565-72

Delhi Heritage Trail : 11

       HUMAYUNS TOMB

       This World  Heritage  site  situated in the  Nizamuddin Heritage  area is one of the earliest  tomb of Moghul Emperors. Hamida  Banu Begum  the grieving  wife  of Humayun  built the  tomb during the years 1565-72.  It stands on a platform of  12000 metre square and is 47 metre in height.

        The  tomb has a mix  Persian influence in Indian  architecture  and built of rubble masonary.  The   first use of red sandstone and white marble in large  quantities is in this structure. The  dome at the  top is 6m in height. The  tomb of the emperor is situated in the  central hall of the tomb covered with white marble.

         The  tomb is called  Dormitary  of Moghul empire with  more than 100 graves of the  close family  members situated in the complex including that of Dara  Shukoh, and later Moghuls badshahs like Mohammed  Azam Shah, Jahandar Shah, Farukkh Siyar,  and Alamgir II

          During the  1857 mutiny  the  last Moghul emperor  Bahadur  Shah  Zafar II escaped from  Shajahanabad with his family  of 16 members and was captured  near  Humayuns Tomb by Captain  Hodson and taken back to  the  city where  his sons were  killed.

          The  tomb is fully  renovated and well maintained with  funds  from Aga Khan Trust. The monument is situated a stones throw away from DPS School,  Mathura  Road

Bahadur Shah Zafar II last Mughul Emperor

Delhi Heritage  Trail  : 10

      Bahadur Shah Zafar II (1775-1862)

     He was the  last Mughul Emperor to rule  Delhi. He assumed the throne at a very  late age of 62 years  in 1837 after the  demise of his father Akbar Shah. His rule and  territory  were  restricted to the areas  in and around  Delhi. He spent most of time writing poems, attending  mushairas,  and with his Begums within  Red Fort.

      When the Mutiny broke  out  in Delhi  he was made  a reluctant  leader  by the  rebels.  When the rebellion  at Delhi  was put down  he ran out of  Shajahanabad to Humans Tomb with  close family members.  He was captured there  by Major  Hodson  brought back and two of his sons and a grand son were killed  near  Khooni Darwaza  on the  way to  Red Fort. The  British  ultimately exiled him to  Rangoon fearing  he may be again a focal point for future revolt although he wanted to be exiled to Mecca.

        In Rangoon  Bahadur Shah  badly missed  Hindustan,  His favourite  Delhi Biryani,    Mangoes, Kababs and Moong kind Dal.  The  few people  around  him Spoke a different language which he cannot understand.

          He died on 7th November 1862 with his youngest wife, two sons some Begums and servants at his bedside. A grave was hurriedly dug in the  evening  and the body buried into it without any fun fare under lanterns lights.  Mud was spread over it and no  marks were left for  identifying it.   He is now being revered as a Pir in Rangoon and people visit his Mazar  for  seeking favours.

       He is the only Mughul  emperor to have been photographed.