St.James Church 1836

Delhi  Heritage Trail : 12

       St . James  Church,  Kashmere Gate

        This is perhaps the  oldest  church  in Delhi the  construction of  which started in 1826 and consecrated in 1836. The  Church  is Anglican and belongs to Church of North India.  It was built by James Skinner who founded the  Skinners  Horse in 1803 the Cavalry  regiment of East India  Company.

          James Skinner  was half Hindu  being born  to a British  and a Rajput Hindu women.  While lying wounded in a battlefield in 1800 he took a vow to build a church if he survived and hence the church was built.  He had 14 wives( how he managed them) and many children and a big  family grand and great grandsons, grand daughters whose family still visit the church.

           The Church though Anglican  is not situated in Lutyens Delhi and outside the walls of  old Shajahanabad in Kashmere  Gate. The  Steeple  of the Church  does not soar high unlike many of the churches,  has an Octogonal arcaded central dome with  stained glass windows  and looks like a neighbourhood church. The  Altar of the church is simple in design.  The  church has beautiful majestic  colonaded portico porches on its three sides. The  Church has a special Pew(Bench) for  Skinners family .

       Before it was built  the area was a Mango  Grove  belonging to  Dara Sukoh the  estranged brother of Aurangazeb.  All the members of the Skinners family  are buried in the North side of the church complex. James Skinner  died in 1841 at Hansi and is buried before the  altar of the Church.  William Fraser  Resident Commissioner of Delhi  in 1857 and scores of  English killed during Mutiny  lay buried  in the  Church complex.

        The  Church is a stones throw away from  Kashmere gate metro station.  It is an active  church  and services are held regularly.

Humayuns Tomb 1565-72

Delhi Heritage Trail : 11

       HUMAYUNS TOMB

       This World  Heritage  site  situated in the  Nizamuddin Heritage  area is one of the earliest  tomb of Moghul Emperors. Hamida  Banu Begum  the grieving  wife  of Humayun  built the  tomb during the years 1565-72.  It stands on a platform of  12000 metre square and is 47 metre in height.

        The  tomb has a mix  Persian influence in Indian  architecture  and built of rubble masonary.  The   first use of red sandstone and white marble in large  quantities is in this structure. The  dome at the  top is 6m in height. The  tomb of the emperor is situated in the  central hall of the tomb covered with white marble.

         The  tomb is called  Dormitary  of Moghul empire with  more than 100 graves of the  close family  members situated in the complex including that of Dara  Shukoh, and later Moghuls badshahs like Mohammed  Azam Shah, Jahandar Shah, Farukkh Siyar,  and Alamgir II

          During the  1857 mutiny  the  last Moghul emperor  Bahadur  Shah  Zafar II escaped from  Shajahanabad with his family  of 16 members and was captured  near  Humayuns Tomb by Captain  Hodson and taken back to  the  city where  his sons were  killed.

          The  tomb is fully  renovated and well maintained with  funds  from Aga Khan Trust. The monument is situated a stones throw away from DPS School,  Mathura  Road

Bahadur Shah Zafar II last Mughul Emperor

Delhi Heritage  Trail  : 10

      Bahadur Shah Zafar II (1775-1862)

     He was the  last Mughul Emperor to rule  Delhi. He assumed the throne at a very  late age of 62 years  in 1837 after the  demise of his father Akbar Shah. His rule and  territory  were  restricted to the areas  in and around  Delhi. He spent most of time writing poems, attending  mushairas,  and with his Begums within  Red Fort.

      When the Mutiny broke  out  in Delhi  he was made  a reluctant  leader  by the  rebels.  When the rebellion  at Delhi  was put down  he ran out of  Shajahanabad to Humans Tomb with  close family members.  He was captured there  by Major  Hodson  brought back and two of his sons and a grand son were killed  near  Khooni Darwaza  on the  way to  Red Fort. The  British  ultimately exiled him to  Rangoon fearing  he may be again a focal point for future revolt although he wanted to be exiled to Mecca.

        In Rangoon  Bahadur Shah  badly missed  Hindustan,  His favourite  Delhi Biryani,    Mangoes, Kababs and Moong kind Dal.  The  few people  around  him Spoke a different language which he cannot understand.

          He died on 7th November 1862 with his youngest wife, two sons some Begums and servants at his bedside. A grave was hurriedly dug in the  evening  and the body buried into it without any fun fare under lanterns lights.  Mud was spread over it and no  marks were left for  identifying it.   He is now being revered as a Pir in Rangoon and people visit his Mazar  for  seeking favours.

       He is the only Mughul  emperor to have been photographed.

Kos Minar, Mathura Road

Delhi Heritage Trail : 9

       Kos Minar

      Mile Pillar situated within the  premises of Delhi Zoological Park, on Mathura  Road.  These were Mile Pillars which were erected during the rule of mediavel  Afghan ruler of  Delhi Sher Shah Suri(1540-45) and later  by Mughul rulers.  They were erected  on the  main highways marking the distance. One Kos is equivalent to 3kms.

      They were solid round pillars around 30 feet in height  that stands on a masonry  platform built with bricks and plastered with lime. They were important tools of communication and travel in Mughul empire.

      Many such Kos Minars were constructed in the  highways from Agra to Ajmer via Jaipur,  Agra to Lahore/Peshawar via Delhi,  Agra to Mandu in the South and Delhi to Bengal via Kanauj in the East. Modern Indian highways have come up in  the same route marked by these Minars.

       This one of the few surviving Kos Minar is situated on Mathura Road and is well preserved.

Kutub Minar

Delhi Heritage Trail : 8

      Qutub Minar

     Qutub Minar the tallest stone tower in the  Indian subcontinent.  It is situated on the  southern suburb of  Delhi near  Mehrauli.  The  construction of the tower was started in the year 1192 by Qutbuddin  Aibak the founder  of  Slave dynasty near Quwwat ul Islam Mosque.  During his lifetime only the  first storey of the  tower was completed made of red sandstone.

       The  second,  third and fourth storey were constructed by his successor Iltumish(1211-36). It was struck by a major lightening in the  year 1368 during the period of Firuz Shah Tughlaq and the  fourth storey was damaged . It was replaced by him along with an additional  fifth  storey. Later in 1503 Sikandar Lodhi  of the  Lodhi  dynasty renovated the top stories  with  marble stones.

        The  total height of the Minar is 238 feet and there are 329 revolving steps  inside it to go to the top.  The  angular  and circular fluttings on the  lower storeys, projecting balconies and decorative inscriptions on the  walls add to its beauty.  It is said artisans  from  Samarkand and Bukhara in the  middle east Asia were brought to do the decorations.

       Another major  earthquake struck the Minar in 1803 and the  top Cupola was damaged.  The  East India  Company  Governor General  authorised Major  Robert  Smith  Garrison  Engineer stationed at Delhi to do the repair.  He replaced the top with  a Hindu style Cupola and work was completed by 1828. But it was  not  in tune with the Islamic  architecture of the Minar  and ultimately  in 1848 Lord Hardinge ordered the  removal of it and it now lies in the corner of the ground.  It used to be called Smiths folly.

      Our people are enamoured by the modern day  skyscrapers of the western hemisphere without appreciating the one in our backyard constructed 800 years back.

Mirza Ghalib

Delhi Heritage Trail : 7

        The Tomb of Mirza Ghalib at Nizammuddin.

     Mirza Ghalib  (1797-1869)  was a great poet of Persian and Urdu languages who lived in the  final era of Moghul rule in Delhi. He was born  in Agra  as Mirza Asadulla Baig Khan and started writing poetry from the age of 11. He migrated to Delhi and had his haveli at Ballimaran in Chandni  Chowk. He was a court poet of Moghul rulers.

       Ghalib married at a young  age of 13 and none of his seven children survived infancy stage.  This tinge of sadness in personal life was reflected in his poetries.  He was popular in the  Indian  subcontinent. His theme that life is  one of continuous struggle was reflected in his verses.

       He was a gifted  letter  writer and in one of his letters mentions marriage as second imprisonment after the initial confinement of life itself.  His letters paved the way for simpler usage of Urdu which was ornamental earlier.

       He took the concept of Ghazals and changed  them from expression of anguish in love  to philosophies of life. His haveli in Chandni Chowk has been converted into a  memorial.  He was given the title  Dabir-ul-Mulk by Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar in 1850. He died in 1869.

Khair ul Manazil Masjid, Mathura Road

Delhi Heritage  Trail  : 6

          Khair ul Manazil Masjid

       This Masjid is situated on Mathura Road opposite  Purana Qila. It was constructed in the  year  1561 by Maham Angah the  Wet Nurse of Emperor  Akbar.

        The  entrance  of  the  Masjid has a grand  red sandstone Archway  representing  Mughul  Architecture of the  period. The  entrance  is grandiose in style. The  Masjid  inside is built of rubble  stone and coated  with  white  plaster  in sultanate  architectural  style.

        As you enter  the  archway there is a octogonal water pool which the devout  Muslims use for their ablutions. The  Masjid on the  opposite  is having three arched gateways  and the  main prayer  hall has five arches  leading  to it.  On the  entrance  gate of the  Masjid  is an inscription which mentions  about  Maham Angah construction of the Masjid.

       Maham Angah was a powerful lady assertive  and autocratic.  She was the  person  who took care of Emperor  Akbar when  Humayun  died  in 1556 and Akbar  was  hardly  13 years  of age. In fact she was the defacto  ruler for  5 years.

      It is said  that once Akbar  after  hunting in the  Forest and after  visiting Nizammuddin Auliya Dargah  nearby rested  here. A disgruntled  slave tried to  attack him with an arrow  which  missed  him by a whisker  he being  of short stature.  What must have happened to the slave need  no mention.

       Sadly this heritage mosque maintained by ASI  is in a very  bad shape. The devout Muslim who  come for prayer here on Fridays consist of  a good number of  Advocates from nearby  Delhi High  Court. In winter  it is informed that the prayers are held in the courtyard in the soothing winter  sunshine.

       Situated on Mathura Road opposite  Purana Qila. Nearest  metro  station Pragati  Maidan

Hazrat Nizammuddin Dargah

Delhi Heritage  Trail  : 5

    Hazrat  Nizamuddin  Dargah

      This Dargah  of Saint  Hazrat  Nizamuddin  Auliya (1238-1325) is situated in Central  Delhi on the  road leading to Mathura Road. The  entrance  to the Dargah  is through a narrow lane with Muslim  shopkeepers selling rose petals,  Attar and  and flower basket  offering to the Saint.

        Nizamuddin  Auliyah  was a Sufi  Saint of 13th  and early 14th century of the  Chisti  order. His forefathers  were from  Bukhara  in Uzbekistan and he was born  in Badayun in Uttar  Pradesh. He shifted to  Delhi  at a young age and started teaching the easy way to realise God  through  love. For  him love of God  implied a love of humanity . His vision was marked by a sense of religious pluralism and kindness.  He was loved by the people of Delhi and their outlook on wordly matters changed.

        The original tomb  was built by Mohammed  Tughlaq in 14th century after his death.  The tomb of Amir Khusru his famous disciple and a poet of Persian  and Urdu language faces Auliyas Tomb. Tomb of Jahanara the  daughter of Shahjahan  is also their in the  complex. The  original tomb was renovated in 1562 to the present  state during  Akbars  period.

        His devotees consider the place very  sacred and Id and Urs are celebrated in a grand manner. The  Dargah is open on all days and the Qawaali  songs in the evening manifolds the divinity of the place. You  can spend  some time in meditation at the  Dargah and the  serene atmosphere  offers great   peace of mind. The  devote sit around the  Dargah  reading the  Quran  and the  wall   outside shrine  of Amir Khusru has a poem praising Nizamuddin  Auliya. It is altogether a different experience. One has to be there to realise it.

Bank of Delhi 1846

    Delhi Heritage Trail : 4

This more than 200 year old heritage building dominating the  skyline of Chandini  Chowk was acquired by Bank  of Delhi in 1846. Earlier it was being  used  by the  British  rulers as their  court. It was here on 11th May 1857 that the  Agent of the Bank  George  Beresford along with  his wife and five daughters were killed  by the  invading  mutineers from  Meerut. The  mutiny broke out at Meerut on 10th May and the sepoys marched to Delhi immediately. Beresford and his fought a valiant  battle to save themselves with  his wife killing at least two mutineers with a spear.  They  lie buried at St.James  Church, Kashmir Gate.

Imperial Bank of India  the  predecessor of State Bank of  India  acquired the building later and presently it houses SBI Regional Office.  For  sometime RBI also functioned from here.  This heritage  building with Palladian architecture epitomises European architecture of the  time.  The  corinthian columns,  balustered terrace, arched doors and windows,  spiral iron staircase and english  lifts are a class apart  justifying the  heritage character of this  building. 

Old Yamuna Bridge 1863

Delhi  Heritage Trail :  3

Old Yamuna  Bridge( Lohe Ka Pul)

          This 152 year old Bridge across the  Yamuna  behind  Red Fort is a living example of  engineering skills of  the Indians in 19th century.  The  construction of the bridge started a year after the death of the last  Mughul  emperor  Bahadur  Shah Zafar II in 1863 and was completed in 1866. It was constructed to connect Delhi from  Calcutta by Rail. Before that people  used  to  be ferried across the Yamuna by boats to  reach Shajahanabad ( old Delhi). It changed the boundaries of the city and Trans Yamuna started to develop.  The  12 span bridge cost the government around 16 lakhs  and was a engineering marvel of the time. Intially a single line was constructed which was converted into double line and the bridge was extensively renovated in 1930s and reopened in 1936.

Pictures  : Francis Frith, Hindu

Sis Ganj Gurdwara 1783

Delhi Heritage Trail : 2

Gurdwara Sis Ganj, Chandni Chowk

      This Gurdwara was originally built in the year 1783 by one Baghel Singh Sikh Military leader to commemorate the martyrdom of 9th Sikh Guru Tegh Bahadur.  Guru Tegh Bahadur was beheaded in this place by Mughul ruler  Aurangazeb for protecting Kashmiri Pandits and himself refusing to convert to Islam. Tegh Bahadur was born on April 1621 to sixth Sikh Guru  Har Gobind as one of the five children.  Right from his childhood he had religious bent of mind and was leading a socio political movement against the Mughul rule. He became the 9th Guru in 1664 and was fighting the cause of his faith and beliefs. He was arrested in July 1675 and was tortured in jail. Since he stood steadfast in his beliefs he was beheaded by Mughul forces on 24th November 1675  in Chandni Chowk in the place where the Gurdwara stands now. His head was taken by one of his disciples to Anandpur Sahib and cremated.  The  severed body was taken to a house nearby by another disciple and cremated by putting entire house on fire. The  Gurdwara Rakab Ganj stands there now. The present structure of the Gurdwara Sis Ganj was built in 1930s. His son Gobind Rai became the 10th and last Guru of Sikhs. Had the opportunity to visit the holy place recently.

Khooni Darwaza

Delhi Heritage Trail : 1

  Khooni Darwaza : This gate which is one of the  13 surviving gates of old Delhi(Shahjahanabad) is situated on Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg  near Maulana Abdul Kalam Medical College. It was originally called Lal Darwaza and was erected in 16th century.  The iconic gate got its name  due to various incidents that occurred here.
   Abdul Rahim Khan son of Bairam Khan was one of the Navratnas of Akbar.  After the death of Akbar he supported Khusru who was the  son of Jehangir to the throne which was not liked by Jehangir who ultimately become king. Abdul Rahim Khans two sons were executed and hanged in Khooni  Darwaza.
     Dara Shikoh the  elder son of  Shahjahan was declared king by Shah jahan himself.  However  Aurangazeb  did not like this and in the  succession war with his brother he killed and beheaded him and his head was hung in Khooni Darwaza for  many days.
     In the  mutiny of  1857  the  last Mughul king Bahadur Shah Zafar II after the fall of  Delhi fled Shajahanabad and was captured by Major Hodson along with his family of 16 near Humayuns Tomb in outer Delhi. When they were being transported to Delhi on 22nd September 1857 a mob of 3000 Muslims surrounded them near Khooni Darwaza. In order to terrorise them Major Hodson in a fit of rage killed two sons of the king Mirza Mughul and Mirza Khizir Sultan and grandson Mirza Abu Bakht here. They were stripped and their bodies were hung here.
      Even during the communal riots post independence many people were killed here. So this gate standing mute for nearly 500 years has an infamous name attached to it.  Now it remains a mute witness on the  busy road leading to old Delhi.